Support
If your purchased product is not listed below, please call us for install assistance.
 

Universal

 

Chase Bays Charge Harness Install - (CB-CHG-00x)

 

Acura/Honda


Chase Bays Brake Line Relocation Kit for 88-91 Civic | 90-93 Integra Install Guide - (CB-H-8891BBEINT)

 

Chase Bays Brake Line Relocation Kit for 92-95 Civic | 94-01 Integra Install Guide - (CB-H-9201BBEINT)

 

Chase Bays Brake Line Relocation Kit for 96-00 Civic  Install Guide - (CB-H-9600BBEINT)


Chase Bays Engine Harness for B / D / H Series ECU Wiring Guide
 

GM LS series Engines

 

Chase Bays Engine Harness for LS2 | LS3 Install Guide

 

 

Nissan 240sx

 

Chase Bays Engine Harness for SR20DET Install Guide

 

Chase Bays Engine Harness for RB26DETT Install Guide

 

Chase Bays Brake Line Relocation Kit for Nissan 240sx Install Guide

 

Chase Bays Power Steering Kit for Nissan 240sx Install Guide

 

Scion FR-S/Subaru BRZ


Chase Bays Charging/Grounding Harness Kit - Scion FR-S/Subaru BRZ

 

Subaru WRX/STi


Chase Bays Brake Line Relocation Kit for Subaru WRX/STI Install Guide - (CB-WRX-BBEINT)

 

Toyota Supra & 1JZ/2JZ


Chase Bays Engine Harness for Toyota 1JZ-GTE & 2JZ-GTE Install Guide

 

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ENGINE HARNESS TROUBLE SHOOTING

 

 

IF YOU HAVE AN ISSUE THAT YOU THINK IS THE ENGINE HARNESS, DO NOT CUT OR MODIFY THE HARNESS. IT WILL VOID THE WARRANTY.

 

Car doesn’t turn over/crank:

 

Make sure your battery is charged and that your starter is properly functioning. There is a Chase Bays Charge Harness supplied with every engine harness, ensure that it’s installed correctly per its install guide (http://www.chasebays.com/content/downloads/Charge%20Harness%20Install.pdf)

If all is well above, the only thing on your engine harness that could cause the car not to turn over is the STS (Starter Solenoid) signal wire. Check pin locations on chassis. (Contact us for diagrams)

 

Car gets no spark or fuel:

 

Did you buy the harness directly from us? If not, sometimes the original user hacks or modifies the harness causing issues and this is not something we can warranty but it something we can help troubleshoot. It is best to take a picture of the modifications and email them in so we can focus in on the issue. 

 

 

Check your fuses. 

 

 

If you have a Check Engine Light, check it. This can eliminate hours of tracking an issue down. 

 

 

Check that you have 12 volts at the Solid Red wire on the 16way chassis plug.

 

 

Check that your fuel pump output wire is in the correct location on your ECU. (Contact us for diagrams)

 

 

Does the car have enough fuel in the tank? If it does and its been sitting in the tank for longer than 4 months the octane level depletes and usually isn’t high enough to make a good enough spark.  

 

 

Check that your battery is charged, hooked up, and tightened properly.

 

 

Check that your engine is properly grounded. Engine harness ground as well as engine and trans ground straps.

 

 

If using our charge harness (why wouldn’t you?!), check thats its tightened and installed properly per the install guide (http://www.chasebays.com/content/downloads/Charge%20Harness%20Install.pdf

 

 

Is your fuel pump stock or aftermarket? If aftermarket, was it wired by a professional? Was the OE harness modified in any way to accommodate the aftermarket FP? Was there a plug and play interface for the FP? The reason we ask these questions is because we’ve seen the fuel pump install cause fuel supply issues time and time again. Bad connections on the plug and play wiring interface, bad wiring on a non plug and play wiring interface. We’ve even seen a customer find that they forgot to attach a hose on the fuel pump assembly. Double check the fuel pump install if you’re having fuel supply issues. 

 

 

Crank or Cam Sensor plugged in correctly? Are they pinned correctly? (Contact us for diagrams)

 

 

Coil 1 often goes bad, and is the leader of the pack for firing order. If you’re having spark issues, check that Coil 1 is functioning properly. 

 

 

Using an external ignition igniter? Usually these require that the igniter itself to be grounded to the chassis. 

 

 

My harness is too short: 

 

This is almost always due to improper routing of the harness. During our R&D process we tighten the harness up and get rid of the slack so it has a more defined fit and stealthy look, but we don’t over do it. We still give the harness enough slack to create a room for error, per say. If you continue having troubles after trying different routing styles, give us a call or send an email and have a few pictures of your harness install ready to send. Once we see your install, we’ll be able to correct it quickly. 

 

My car idles high and/or runs significantly different after harness install:

 

With the replacement of a 20+ year old harness causes much better of a connection on CAS, Crank, Injector, Ground, and various sensors that cause the motor to perform to certain standard.  If your car was tuned and timed on the OE harness, it was done so with bad, dirty and/or broken connection. It is set up to read a bad signal and adjusted as needed to run normal.  With our BRAND NEW harness, the connections are all new and reading flawlessly.  The adjusted timing and/or tuning compensated by the bad connections will probably need to be adjusted again to match the new harness.


Your harness burned my ECU:

 

This is impossible with fuses and relays, they’re in place to avoid such problems. In our research and development we’ve purposefully pinned powers to ground inputs, and ground to power outputs. We’ve tried it all. This always caused the fuse to pop, and no current was sent to the ECU. Most ECU failures are because of water damage/high moisture climates, cheap aftermarket re-chipping, or bad production on a stand alone.

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