Chase Bays Brake Booster Eliminator



• Full replacement kit of the OEM brake booster and master cylinder.
• Includes black anodized aluminum firewall plate with stainless mounting hardware, black Wilwood 7/8" master cylinder, brake pedal adapter, and pedal clevis pin.
• Only 1.5 lbs, a true weight saving product.



Question: Will this product be able to stop my car when I'm going 130mph or heading into a turn at 120mph?

Of course it will, we've stopped cars at higher speeds. Its a 7/8" master cylinder. Its going to put out the same pressure as another 7/8" master cylinder. If the master cylinder is too big with no booster and you have the leg to support it (you don't), your going to break something. It's simple lever physics. Even with a booster and an oversized master cylinder...its just a bad setup. Much too stiff of a pedal to function properly. The dual is a harder pedal feel from the single. Its a larger bore size. The dual works great but only if your pedal ratio is matched.
What does outlet count have to do with the braking power? I know of an old toyota with 4 outputs directly on the master cylinder, but that doesn't make its bad braking power any more powerful. That just means its brake proportioning is controlled internally. 
Braking output is controlled by the bore size. Pedal feel and clamping force have to do with bore size in conjunction with the pedal ratio. Thats what we perfected to keep your feet happy and your car stopping as well as it did before. But now you've dropped 10 or more pounds, saved a foot of space, and improved aesthetics.


Whether it be to save weight & space or improve aesthetics and performance...this does all four. Our brake booster eliminator kit is a great product. A 100% complete quality kit includes everything you need to replace your OEM brake booster and master cylinder. The plate has a great black anodized design that looks great and functions even better; and requires no cutting or fab work. We exclusively use a Wilwood 7/8" Compact Combination Master Cylinder in black. This is the best master cylinder and 75% smaller than any other equivalent. We get so many questions regarding the functionality of this kit so keep reading it and all of your questions should be answered. Will my brakes still work and how is the pedal feel? Of course! We would not sell a braking product if it didn't work. Functionally the car stops in the same amount of time. If your brakes are in working order and are 100% bled properly you will not lose any performance in that department. In this kit the main change is the pedal feel. It is definitely a much stiffer pedal feel and does require a bit more leg pressure. It is still very street-able and very easy to get used to. Not only have we tested it ourselves and proved its greatness but also out of the hundreds of customers who have purchased it no one had any complaints. A drive down the street and you’re used to the change.


Is this item universal?

Yes, 90% universal. It fits 90% of the cars on the road, the 4 bolt pattern is pretty universal. We can supply a PDF document for measurement to determine if this will bolt up to your firewall.



Why do you use a 7/8" master cylinder instead of a 1+ inch? Wouldn't this be the perfect time to upgrade?

Although a valid question, bigger is not always better with braking components. The pedal ratio & master cylinder size are what directly effect how your pedal feels and how it stops. With the 10-12 chassis we specialize in the 7/8" master cylinder is a perfect match. Piston count on the calipers doesn't matter either. We use the 7/8" setup on our FR-S with 6 piston front and 4 piston rear and it worked amazing. Insane braking on the track. Getting rid of the power booster definitely changes how your braking system feels and works. Say you put a 1-inch master cylinder in your 2,300lb car. You go to press the pedal down and it feels like a rock (not the country song) The pedal is too stiff to get the car to brake efficiently. Why is that? Well, without the power booster you're getting raw braking. The pedal hooks directly to the master cylinder, and that master cylinder controls everything. The 1" inch master cylinder is capable of more pressure output but your foot is the one that pushes that power out of it. If your master cylinder is too big, your leg + the pedal ratio cannot provide the leverage needed to push the 1" cylinder. With all of our R&D, the 7/8" cylinder proved to be the crowd favorite.

Bigger master cylinder = Harder pedal feel/more difficult to push and shorter travel. 

Smaller master cylinder = More soft pedal feel/easier to push and longer travel. 

You find the perfect balance between the above and thats what you stick with.

Does this kit work with my OEM brake lines?

No. You can purchase one of our brake line kits to assist you, or you can always make your own custom lines. The reason it doesn't work with OEM lines is due to the master cylinder being a single outlet design instead of dual like most OEM master cylinders. It's a common misconception to think this causes a higher risk of failure due to no back up line in case one busts. Most OEM Master Cylinders are still single feed internally and are identical to what we have here. If you one of those line busts, you're still losing all of your brake pressure. The simple solution is don't use lines that will bust and you will be safe. OEM lines don't burst, neither do ours. It's the same thing as saying wheels are safe or unsafe...theoretically they're only as safe as the tires. We've been using this product on our cars that race and drift in for 6 years with not a single failure, the same goes for our customers.



More information on how brakes work, since this is such a debated product:

If you increase the diameter of the master cylinder you will REDUCE LINE PRESSURE WHICH REDUCES CLAMPING FORCE.


1.) Switching from stock 7/8" brake master cylinder w/ booster to a larger one, IE; 1" BMC, this yields into having to use a lot more leg effort to stop the vehicle and doesn't have that bite the 7/8" BMC has when it engages. Hence why we use the 7/8" Wilwood with our booster-less setup (explained above 2 or 3 times)
2.) If you decrease the diameter of the master cylinder you will INCREASE CLAMPING FORCE, which is the ONLY part of braking that will make you stop quicker. 


If you have already upgraded to a larger brake master cylinder such as 1" over the stock 7/8" you probably noted a lot firmer pedal but more leg effort to come to a stop quickly, if you were to switch back to the smaller 7/8" you will feel that when the brakes engage they do so with a lot more bite then the larger BMC. So you ask where’s the happy medium? Where is the sweet spot? For us and seemingly all other 500+ customers, we like the 7/8" BMC. Over any size we have tried. We've tested every size Wilwood sells. The pedal travel is absolutely perfect. This is subject to change with different pedal ratios.


We also recommend the Chase Bays Fenderwell Lines which replace the OEM rubber lines in the fenderwell that attach to your calipers. 

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