Nissan S-Chassis Product Tour
Chase Bays has been developing aftermarket motorsports products for nearly 20 years with a singular goal in mind - improving longevity and aesthetics in the components that often get overlooked or are unknown to have issues (until it's too late). In doing so, we find shortcomings in factory fluid transfer systems on every chassis, but with the S-Chassis, we strive to eliminate anything that can prevent them from performing at their best.

S-Chassis Fluid Transfer Categories
Braking
Drivetrain
Power Steering
Fuel Delivery
Cooling
Oil Control
Chase Bays has made it their mission to ensure these products are developed, manufactured, and stress tested to meet our high standards of proper motorsport-grade performance. Each and every category of fluid transfer system in the Nissan S13, S14, and S15 has been combed through to provide solutions for any engine swap or motorsport discipline you can throw at it. However, there is one area of this chassis that stands to make the most out of any level of upgrade.
BRAKING
In motorsports such as Formula Drift, SCCA, GLTC, everyone focuses on going fast (so do we). Being able to stop on a dime on the street, slow down for 10A/10B at Road Atlanta, or left-foot brake mid-drift is just as if not more important. There's a reason our Dual Piston Brake Booster Eliminator is not only our top selling product, but is also ran by James Deane, URAS's Nomuken Jr., and many more!

The factory braking system on a 240SX was never designed for performance use - vacuum leaking/boost robbing brake boosters, single piston brake calipers with rubber caliper lines, and undersized 7/8" bore OE master cylinders. Even brand new, before 30+ years of age and abuse, they were already underequipped for stock power levels let alone the 300whp+ that is extremely easy to achieve with bolt-on turbo upgrades. This leads into the other issue - simply replacing the caliper lines, utilizing a brake booster delete, or any singular item of the entire system does not complete the puzzle of upgraded braking.

The braking system solution for the Nissan S Chassis begins with our tried and true Dual Piston Brake Booster Delete. Whether you need to left-foot brake mid-drift or trail brake on a road course, the Dual Piston BBE is the way to do it with consistent, linear, and proper proportioned brake force you need for motorsport use. The improved 6:1 pedal ratio, combined with a 1" bore master and adjustable front-to-rear bias, allows a plethora of caliper upgrades to be fine tuned for your specific setup.

However, none of those calipers are of any use if the fluid is routed to them incorrectly/interferes with engine swap components and the factory caliper line banjo bolt doesn't work with their seal type. This is where our Brake Line Relocation specific to the Dual Piston Brake Booster Eliminator makes the installation a breeze - it replaces the crusty and rusty factory hardlines with 3AN PTFE Steel Braided line pressure tested to 5,000psi+, and includes a section of Firesleeve for areas where the line needs additional protection from exhaust headers/turbo manifolds.

Same goes for the main hardline under the car - those are either always damaged from the car being lowered or rusted through if you live up north. We even have a Front to Rear Brake Line Replacement kit specifically to replace every single inch of factory hardline with our 3AN hose!

Once to their respective front fenderwell and rear brake hardline connections, all that's left is a set of Brake Caliper Lines made of the same great 3AN hose with a crimped-on line end fitting specific for any caliper you can bolt or adapt to the knuckle.
Drivetrain

The entire drivetrain system of the S-Chassis follows suit with Nissan's performance expectations from the factory. Once the very achievable 300whp+ power levels are reached, that is where the weak points of the stock drivetrain components start to show their age and under-performing abilities. If planning to turbocharge your KA, upgrade the turbo of your SR, or swap in one of the many engines we offer swap-related parts for, one of the first things you will have to address is the clutch, and with that comes the clutch master cylinder. For higher pressure rated pressure plates and other heavy duty clutch setups, the factory 5/8" master cylinder is not up to the task. We offer the Clutch Master Cylinder Adapter kits to allow the firewall bolt pattern to be adapted to fit either our own 5/8" Master Cylinder or 3/4" Master Cylinder depending on your pressure needs. Consistent clutch pressure application and engagement is crucial to keep your drivetrain intact.

Once swapping the Clutch Master Cylinder, the factory clutch hardline will not adapt to the outlet, and if you're swapping transmissions the slave cylinder end could be in the wrong location and incorrect seal type. We offer a Clutch Line for every popular swap for the S-Chassis, and with it's most common use case being drifting, every single kit is offered with an optional upgrade to include a Flow Control Valve. This technology was first put in use on drag cars during hard launches to save their transmissions, driveshafts, differentials, and axles - all the same things that are put in jeopardy from clutch kicking in drift! It works by slightly slowly the fluid pressure drop when releasing the clutch quickly, which in turn slows the engagement of the clutch allowing the blow to be SIGNIFICANTLY lighter on everything behind the clutch.

Most of the time, this is where drivetrain upgrades stop, so this one is going to new for a LOT of S-Chassis guys. We have made our Oil Catch Can for a while, but only within the last year we have placed these in use on our S15 and ZN6 as Differential Catch Can's. Welded diff cars won't benefitted from this upgraded, but if you have a VLSD or 1.5/2-way differential you would be very surprised at the amount of fluid cooling/retention is maintained when the differential is properly vented. We drifted our S15 between 25-30 laps at Atlanta Motorsports Park in July 2026 and filled our Differential Catch Can to the brim! This is caused by fluid cavitation from the LSD locking and unlocking, slinging fluid inside the casing, which normally would've resulted in losing this fluid within the factory frame rail vent location.
Power Steering

The factory power steering system, especially the factory reservoir, is also heavily benefitted from our motorsport-grade upgrades. The factory reservoirs were engineered, baffled, and intended for their most extreme use to be hitting full lock trying to parallel park - not throwing the car backwards into a corner, traveling lock to lock within seconds, and doing so lap after lap. Combine that with replacing the pump via an engine swap to a unit designed for a 3,500 pound American muscle-car, and you're going to be in for some fluid retention issues. This is when our Ultra Baffled Power Steering Reservoir becomes the only option to truly conquer any power steering system abuse you could throw at it.

On top of the Reservoir itself, we have hyper-fixated on providing specific adapters, fittings, and lines to account for any variable that the S-Chassis has in store when trying to complete an engine swap. We offer Power Steering Kits for all popular engine swaps, and each of those kits have been R&D'd to confirm all fitting types required at all the pump and rack locations to be 100% accurate for your needs. This makes plumbing your power steering a breeze, and upgrades your factory lines with ones capable of handling 3000psi+ of pressure.

Now that you have the Power Steering Reservoir and Kit, you might think you are ready to hit the track - not quite. The factory system, even with upgraded components to carry the fluid through it, still generates heat during hot lapping/drifting, and heat degrades the fluid resulting in less total pressure/steering assist. The solution is our Power Steering Cooler, sold either optionally with your kit OR standalone to add to your setup. We offer both the Inline Heatsink Power Steering Cooler with chassis specific brackets which mount to the factory tension rod under shield bolt holes, and the common 10 Row Cooler for a more traditional 'DIY' mounting option.

One of the most common things to happen during an engine swap or removal is damage to the factory steering rack hardlines. These hardlines are not available standalone new anymore, and if you were to replace them it would be with an entire new steering rack assembly. We have created an alternative to this which not only reproduces a solution for replacement part, but upgrades them to motorsport-grade lines and fittings. Our Steering Rack Hard Line Replacement kit is just what you need to swap out regardless if you are replacing damaged hardlines, or want to upgrade to a more serviceable solution.
Fuel Delivery

The factory fuel system of your S-Chassis needs help, arguably, more than anything else on this system simply from a safety standpoint. It is not uncommon for the average 240 to have 30 year old+ rubber lines, undersized and overlooked fuel filter that is begging for replacement, and fuel line connections that would fail a track tech inspection. This is why we have developed engine and fuel rail specific Fuel Line Kits for all popular engines, and have done all the research to make choosing the adapter you need simple AND included with your kit. One of the biggest upgrades from our kit is the 100 Micron 6AN Fuel Filter with a replaceable stainless steel filter - this allows for a MUCH higher ceiling in terms of fuel flow limitations and a serviceable housing for future use, and it's E85 safe!

Plumbing the fuel to the engine is only half the solution. Properly regulating the fuel pressure when boosted applications require rising pressure rates, and factory rail mounted FPR's have 30+ year old rubber diaphragms and no way to use AN connections. This is where our Ultra Compact Fuel Pressure Regulator comes in to save the day. We install these on every build at our HQ because fuel pressure drops/lean spikes can turn a track day into a bad day REAL fast. This is available in both 3-port 'dead head' style and 2-port fuel-rail-mount style depending on what is needed for the setup. All of our Fuel Line Kit's are designed around one of these 2 styles of FPR, so it makes integration of this to your fuel system seamless!
Cooling

One of the easiest upgrades you can do for an S-Chassis is proper cooling with high CFM electric fans. Clutch fans are standard on the factory engines, but switching to dual 11" Ultra High Flow Electric Fans allows the mechanical drag to be removed while being able to provide stable air flow CFM regardless of your RPM (idle in the pits or on the limiter on track!). There are a plethora of options for fan mounting to factory placement radiators, but keep your eyes peeled in 2027 for an in-house solution... more on that later!

In order to wire these, since there is no factory trigger for electric fans on any S-Chassis, our Dual Fan Relay Wiring Harness makes that process take less than 5 minutes start to finish. Once your fans are mounted, simply mount the relay box, install the included 1/8" NPT Setrab 180 degree temperature sensor, and connect the power and ground wires as needed. The harness is self-regulated with, aptly named, dual relays and fuses to ensure consistent power draw/output so your fans produce the most airflow possible for your cooling system.
Oil Control

To pair with the cooling system, your oiling system is just as detrimental to overlook. Just like power steering, unchecked temperatures can overheat and break down your oil, leading to pressure loss and potential bearing wear. Your oil is essentially stuck inside the engine with no external cooler from the factory unlike the cooling system - so we developed a solution. For both S13 and S14/S15, we offer engine specific Oil Cooler Kits for various engine swaps with large 19 Row Chase Bays Oil Coolers to give your oil the 40 degree drop in temperature it needs to maintain sufficient oil pressure when on track/drifting!

Crank case pressure is a very misunderstood concept within the automotive community. The factory systems were designed around PCV valves and factory boost levels. When pushing an S-Chassis with a factory Nissan engine or other swaps proper baffling and containment via recirculation is crucial to keep your engine holding proper boost and vacuum levels. Our Dual Inlet Oil Catch Can does just that, and we have seen a huge increase in idle stability and ethanol condensation capturing on our S15 on E85 - something that should NEVER be in your oiling system!