Ever since the S13 chassis was debuted in 1988 for the 1989 model year, the S Chassis is widely considered the first dedicated drift chassis next to the AE86. We have owned, built, and maximized all the popular chassis: ZN6/8, R34, Z32, Z33, E36, E46, JZX100, C6, S2000...all of them! Of everything we have owned, the S Chassis generations paved the way for all future drift applicable chassis to improve where possible. It's a regular on drift and track podiums, has won FD, D1, and Driftmasters championships, and still maintains a big street style movement that I believe is as important as the former.

Before getting into chassis details, we have to mention one of the biggest pro's to the S Chassis - aftermarket support for different engine swaps. HOWEVER, we think the factory SR20DET and KA24DE are incredible engines that have earned and deserve respect based on the decades of builds based around these platforms. Let me explain the main reasons why: 

1) Factory Engine Weight Balance - Nissan spent years of R&D to figure out the best placement, size, and architecture for the factory engine options for the S Chassis, and in doing so they created a great front to rear balance given it's RWD-only layout. This balance, and overall chassis design, was improved greatly with the later S14 and S15 models, but the engine package stayed the same for a reason. The SR20DET specifically offers plenty of reliable headroom to successfully accomplish 90% of drifting applications, and changing from that to almost any other platform can add hundreds of pounds to the front axle, and sometimes even placing weight even further towards the nose of the car. 

2) Engine Swap Complexity - To build on the previous point, it is very hard to justify swaps considering OEM style engine mounts, subframes, steering racks, etc. are all possible to source without the need to reinvent the wheel so-to-speak by shoehorning another engine in. Swap kits are available for almost every commonly used engine due to the seemingly never-ending growth and development for the S Chassis, and most people on the internet will tell you that swapping in X, Y, LS, or Z only costs 1/4 the actual price needed to complete properly and reliably. Obviously swapping in another engine with higher power headroom or more low-end torque CAN be a good thing, there is no denying the numbers put down by any of the common JZ/RB/LS options, but it also can cause headaches for making all the pieces come together. 

3) The Overbuilding Treachery - There is something beautiful about a simple, well built S Chassis that always makes them stand out. This applies to both exterior and mechanical simplicity. However, with an aftermarket parts selection that some would argue as the largest of any chassis within all JDM legends, it is a slippery slope to want to throw everything but the kitchen sink at the build. No one gains anything from a driver or spectator point of view if your S Chassis lives on jack stands for 6 years planning to build to greatest D1 or FD competition-only drift car. When the S13 was first released, thousands of them were taken to mountain roads and tracks without so much as coilovers on them - fun can be had at any build progression's stage. Don't let the destination get in the way of the journey!

Now that that's out of the way, we can move into our combined experience and recommended setups for different price/build complexity stages. Brief look at our S13 (Overbuilding got the best of us...) and S15 from the past few years. 

Chase Bays S13

Chase Bays S15

The S15 was purchased in 2023 and was to be kept in Japan as an overseas only car, but after only 1 visit to drive it, we decided it needed to come stateside for future product development and used at the tracks we frequent here. It was drifted at Nikko Circuit, Mobara Twin Circuit, and Bihoku Highland Circuit in 2024 during the visit to Japan, and landed stateside in June 2026 and was taken to the Atlanta Motorsports Park drift event for July 4th. 

Since then, our plan is to continue to drift the S15 and finish the S13 to test both versions of the infamous S Chassis with similar power goals yet 2 different types of finished product. We explain this to show instead of just telling you that we really dug deep into the chassis and you can trust what we say since it's based in real world experience. We are doing the testing and development so you don't have to. We have ZERO part sponsors so anything we recommend is because we believe in it and use it ourselves.

S Chassis Drift Setup Stages

Okay let's talk set up. I am going to break this up into stage 1, 2, and 3 and give an alignment setting for each level which is associated with power. 

Stage 1 Drift Spec - Whether you're experienced or just starting out this still applies. This setup is phase one in getting you acclimated the chassis with a proper setup. Nothing hinders growth more than a bad set up so if you follow this, know its right and if you can't drift it then its driver not car. Each product has an explanation of why it's included in stage 1 when you click individual links.

Stage 1 Drift Package

Recommended for those wanting factory engine simplicity while setting up the chassis for future growth/skill headroom. Applicable for KA24DE or SR20DET setups. 

Parts Shop Max (PBM) Coilovers
Heatmaker B-Knuckle V3 Steering Knuckles
5 Lug Conversion
EGR Delete
Chase Bays Dual Piston Brake Booster Delete
Chase Bays Power Steering Kit w/ Cooler
Rear Camber and Toe Arms
KAAZ 2-Way L.S.D. w/ Super Q
Bride Seat Rail Type LF or FG Left Side

For KA24DE, adjust timing at distributor to 20-22 degrees BTDC.

For SR20DET, Hallman Manual Boost Controller to 12-14 psi. 

Stage 1 Alignment Specs
Front
Camber: -5º to -7° (can give or take depending on wheel fitment)
Caster: 8º
Toe: 7mm toe out PER side (Daily driven cars can go to 4mm Toe Out per side)
Rear
0 camber 
0 toe

Stock Fender and Quarter Wheel Specs that still work with Stage 2 Angle
Front: 17x7.5 +16 OR 17x7 +10
215/40-17 or 215/45-17 200A

Rear: 18x9 +35
225/40-18 400A+

18x9 recommended over 8.5" or 9.5" since 225 thru 265 fits on a 9" and the tire size can grow with you and the car.

Front can use 18's but 17's fit and drive better for drifting, especially on S13.

Stage 2 Drift Package

Recommended for those wanting more power without serious engine building, yet utilizing the same base setup with simple additions. Applicable for KA24DE-T or SR20DET setups. 

Parts Shop Max (PBM) OEM Style Extended Front LCAs
Parts Shop Max (PBM) High Clearance Tension Rods
Parts Shop Max (PBM) Straight Tie Rod Spacers
Z32 300ZX Front and Rear Brakes
Chase Bays Handbrake / Chassis Bracket / Brake Line Kit
Chase Bays Oil Cooler Kit
Chase Bays Catch Can Kit
Chase Bays Clutch Line w/ Flow Valve
Tomei BX7960 Turbo Kit with Expreme Manifold (Optional for KA24DE or SR20DET)

Possible to tune this setup using RS Enthalpy ROM tune or standalone ECU such as Link or Haltech. 

Stage 2 Alignment Specs
Front
Camber: -5º to -7° (can give or take depending on wheel fitment)
Caster: 8º
Toe: 7mm toe out PER side (Daily driven cars can go to 4mm Toe Out per side)
Rear
0 camber 
0 toe

Stock Fender and Quarter Wheel Specs that work with Stage 2 Angle
Front: 17x7.5 +16 OR 17x7 +10
215/40-17 or 215/45-17 200A

Rear: 18x9 +35
225/40-18 300A

18x9 recommended over 8.5" or 9.5" since 225 thru 265 fits on a 9" and the tire size can grow with you and the car.

Front can use 18's or 17's, 215 to 225 and pay attention to tire height, especially on S13.

.

Stage 3 Drift Package - Factory Engine

Recommended for those who need the fully utilize the power capable from the SR20DET, while also allowing max seat time by optimizing hot-lap reliability. 

Greddy Front Mount or PBM High Mount Intercooler Kit
Link or Haltech ECU w/ Plug-n-Play Harness Adapter
R35 Coilpack Conversion
Koyo N Flo or Chase Bays Tucked Radiator
Engine and Trans Mounts
Safety21 Bolt In Roll Cage

SR20DET Specific to Stage 3:

Spectrum Motorsports SR48x Turbo Kit for SR20DET
Denstoj Rocker Retainers (installs without any extensive work in cyl head)
Stance Oversized Water Pump Pulley

KA24DE-T Specific to Stage 3:

Garrett GTX3076R or G30-660 Turbo Upgrade 
ATI Crankshaft Damper

Stage 3 Alignment Specs
Front
Camber: -6º to -7° (can give or take depending on wheel fitment)
Caster: 8º
Toe: 7mm toe out PER side (Daily driven cars can go to 4mm Toe Out per side)
Rear
0 camber 
0 toe

Stock Fender and Quarter Wheel Specs that work with Stage 2 Angle
Front: 17x7.5 +16 OR 17x7 +10
215/40-17 or 215/45-17 200A

Rear: 18x9 +35
255/35-18 or 265/35-18 300A

18x9 recommended over 8.5" or 9.5" since 225 thru 265 fits on a 9" and the tire size can grow with you and the car.

Front can use 18's but 17's fit and drive better for drifting, especially on S13.

Stage 3 Drift Package - Engine Swap

Recommended for those who want more power, and are willing to expand their build beyond the factory engine at the cost of additional complexity. Both swaps are recommended to be paired with 6 speed Z33 350Z or 5 speed Z32 300ZX transmission 

1JZ VVTi:
Collins Transmission Adapter and Swap Mounts
Swift Front Coilover Springs (Stiffer rate by 2-4 kg/mm)

GM LS3 (Aluminum Block HIGHLY Preferred):
LOJ Swap Kit

Stage 3 Alignment Specs
Front
Camber: -6º to -7° (can give or take depending on wheel fitment)
Caster: 8º
Toe: 7mm toe out PER side (Daily driven cars can go to 4mm Toe Out per side)
Rear
0 camber 
0 toe

Stock Fender and Quarter Wheel Specs that work with Stage 2 Angle
Front: 17x7.5 +16 OR 17x7 +10
215/40-17 or 215/45-17 200A

Rear: 18x9 +35
255/35-18 or 265/35-18 300A

18x9 recommended over 8.5" or 9.5" since 225 thru 265 fits on a 9" and the tire size can grow with you and the car.

Front can use 18's but 17's fit and drive better for drifting, especially on S13.