Ever since the S13 chassis was debuted in 1988 for the 1989 model year, the S Chassis is widely considered the best and first dedicated drift chassis next to the AE86. We have owned, built, and maximized all the popular chassis: ZN6/8, R34, Z32, Z33, E36, E46, JZX100, C6, S2000...all of them! Of everything we have owned, the S-Chassis and ZN6 are the absolute best driving and easiest to work on / build chassis for drifting. It's a regular on drift and track podiums for 20+ years, has won FD, D1, and Driftmasters championships, and still maintains a big street style movement that we believe is as important as the former.

In addition to the drivability and ease of work and access, they have INCREDIBLE aftermarket support. Even just being at drift events its nice when there are still significant S chassis you can share parts with if something were to go down. There are a LOT of engine swap choices for the S chassis that are all extremely developed. We will type another engine swap guide for things to consider, how your goals effect the choice, and parts recommendations. For us, we're happy at 450-550hp so we feel the SR20DET is the best option for 550hp and under. Here's why:

1) Factory Engine Weight Balance - Nissan spent years of R&D to figure out the best placement, size, and architecture for the factory engine options for the S Chassis, and in doing so they created a great front to rear balance given it's RWD-only layout. This balance, and overall chassis design, was improved greatly with the later S14 and S15 models, but the engine package stayed the same for a reason. The SR20DET specifically offers plenty of reliable headroom to successfully accomplish 90% of drifting applications, and changing from that to almost any other platform can add hundreds of pounds to the front axle and placing weight even further towards the nose of the car which effects drivability more than people realize.

2) Engine Swap Complexity - To build on the previous point, it is very hard to justify swaps considering OEM style engine mounts, subframes, steering racks, etc. are all possible to source without the need to reinvent the wheel so-to-speak by shoehorning another engine in. Swap kits are available for almost every commonly used engine due to the seemingly never-ending growth and development for the S Chassis, and most people on the internet will tell you that swapping in X, Y, LS, or Z only costs 1/4 the actual price needed to complete properly and reliably. Swapping in another engine with more runway for higher power or more low-end torque CAN be a good thing, there is no denying the numbers put down by any of the common JZ/RB/LS options, but it also can cause headaches for making all the pieces come together. If you're happy with 550hp and under it's almost always better to go SR. Personal preference weighs in too, maybe you love the JZ or RB or LS sound, it's okay to just WANT something and accept the price or driving change. We're just here to educate the difference in thought and outcome.

3) The Overbuilding Treachery - There is something beautiful about a simple, well built S Chassis that always makes them stand out. This applies to both exterior and mechanical simplicity. However, with an aftermarket parts selection that some would argue as the largest of any chassis within all JDM legends, it is a slippery slope to want to throw everything but the kitchen sink at the build. No one gains anything from a driver or spectator point of view if your S Chassis lives on jack stands for 6 years planning to build to greatest D1 or FD competition-only drift car. When the S13 was first released, thousands of them were taken to mountain roads and tracks without so much as coilovers on them - fun can be had at any build progression's stage. Don't let the destination get in the way of the journey! Again the guide below is to setup the chassis and suspension to match what the power is to make it FUN.

Now that that's out of the way, we can move into our combined experience and recommended setups for different price / build complexity stages. Brief look at our S13 (overbuilding got the best of us...) and S15 from the past few years.

Chase Bays S13

The engine bay was fully stripped to see what was and was not needed for the final goal of using an SR20DET.

This S13 coupe will be completed within the next few years. We are guilty of over building and it getting stuck on jack stands. We don't want that to happen to you. What started as a test chassis for multiple engine swap specific components has turned into more of a shop tool than a project car with now a new light at the end of the tunnel. Within the last year, all aero has been sourced and mounted, and all of the suspension is being updated to what we know works best. It's pretty much reverting back to simplicity. Don't call it a comeback!

Chase Bays S15

The S15 was purchased in 2023 and was to be kept in Japan as an overseas only car, but after 2 visits we decided it needed to come stateside for future product development and used at the tracks we frequent here. It was drifted at Nikko Circuit, Mobara Twin Circuit, and Bihoku Highland Circuit in 2024 during the visit to Japan, and landed stateside in June 2026 and was taken to the SELECT DRIVING CLUB Atlanta Motorsports Park drift event for July 4th.

Since then, our plan is to continue to drift the S15 and finish the S13 versions of the infamous S Chassis with similar power goals yet 2 different types of finished product. We explain this to show instead of just telling you that we really dug deep into the chassis and you can trust what we say since it's based in real world experience. We are doing the testing and development so you don't have to. We have ZERO part sponsors so anything we recommend is because we believe in it and use it ourselves.

S Chassis Drift Setup Stages

Okay let's talk set up. We're going to break this up in stage 1, 2, and 3 and give an alignment setting for each level which is associated with power ranges. Again this is more focused for chassis / suspension setup and there will be other guides for engine and other areas.

Stage 1 Drift Spec - Whether you're experienced or just starting out this still applies. This setup is phase one in getting you acclimated the chassis with a proper setup. Nothing hinders growth more than a bad set up so if you follow this, know its right and if you can't drift it then its driver not car. Each product has an explanation of why it's included in stage 1 when you click individual links.

Stage 1 Drift Package - 150-300hp

Recommended for those wanting mostly factory engine simplicity while setting up the chassis for future growth/skill headroom. Angle will need to be limited until you get wider front fenders. We are taking the approach of buying once

Coilover Options:
• Parts Shop Max (PBM) - 8k F / 6k R S13 or S14/S15
• SLR x Chase Bays (Coming Soon!) - 8k F / 6k R
• Ohlins R&T aka Type HAL Coilovers - 8k F / 6k R

Knuckle Options:
• HeatMaker B-Knuckle V3 Steering Knuckles
OR
• Parts Shop Max (PBM) S13 or S14/S15

Other needed Angle Kit Parts:
• OEM S14/S15 Front Lower Control Arms OR Parts Shop Max (PBM) S14/S15 OEM style Front lower control arms +40mm length ... Stage 2 and 3 will require adding 30mm+ Front Fenders. The 40mm Extended LCA's would not fit with stock fenders so just know on S13 you'd be buying the LCA's twice unless you buy the PBM LCA's + went ahead and did wider front fenders.
• Parts Shop Max (PBM) High Angle Tension Rods S13 or S14/S15
• Parts Shop Max (PBM) Extended CrMo Inner Tie Rods
• IF OEM S14/S15 LCA use OEM Outer Tie Rods ... IF Parts Shop Max (PBM) +40mm LCA's use PBM S14 / S15 LimitBreak Outer Tie Rods with OEM style Taper

With the above parts and stock rack location you will get around 50º-55º degrees of steering angle which is plenty. Wheel sizes recommended further down for max steering angle.

• Chase Bays Caliper Lines
• Chase Bays Power Steering Kit w/ Cooler
• Chase Bays Clutch Line w/ Flow Valve (will save your drivetrain)
• 5 Lug Conversion to 5x114.3 (if 4 lug)
• Parts Shop Max (PBM) Rear Camber Arm
• Parts Shop Max (PBM) Rear Toe Arm

We DO NOT recommend changing the Rear Traction Rod or Rear LCA to adjustable, there is no grip gained and only harder alignments and adjustments if you change those. We recommend NISMO Reinforced IF they need to be replaced (not necessary for stage 1):
• NISMO Reinforced Rear Traction Rod
• NISMO Reinforced Rear LCA S13 or S14/S15 (note: S13 not offered in reinforced as of writing this, it's fine they are strong.)
• KAAZ 2-Way L.S.D. w/ Super Q (Cusco also a great brand)
• Bride Seat Rail Type FG Left or Right Side (depending on RHD or LHD)

For KA24DE, adjust timing at distributor to 20-22 degrees BTDC.
For SR20DET, Hallman Manual Boost Controller to 10-12 psi.

Stage 1 Alignment Specs
Front
Camber: -5° to -7º (can give or take depending on wheel fitment)
Caster: 7º-9º(Caster is good)
Toe: 7mm toe out PER side (Daily driven cars can go to 4mm Toe Out per side)
Rear
0 camber
0 toe

Stock Fender and Quarter Wheel Specs that still work with Stage 1 and 2 Angle
Front: 17x8 +25 or 18x8 +25
225/45-17 or 225/40-18 200A or 300A (Valino 08C is the best tire for front)

Rear: 18x9 +25 or 18x9.5 +30
225/40-18 400A+
You will likely run 40-70psi rear tire pressure, that's normal.

Fitment Notes:
18x9 or 18x9.5 recommended over 8.5" or 10" since 225 thru 265 fits on a 9" and 9.5" and the tire size can grow with you and the car.
Front can use 17's or 18's.
At this level, stock fender and quarter widths are perfectly usable. Scroll to stage to for recommended wheel sizes for +30mm and +55mm front and rear overs.

Stage 2 Drift Package

Recommended for those wanting more power without serious engine building, yet utilizing the same base setup with simple additions. 300-400hp

SAME components as Stage 1 but adding:
• Parts Shop Max (PBM) Rack Relocation (or custom DIY relocation)
• Parts Shop Max (PBM) LimitBreak Front Sway Bar S13 or S14/S15

Rack Relocation is not necessary, it fixes the over centering that can happen at or near full lock. Over-centering is when the steering gets heavier or binds (wheel starts shaking). Some people are used to it and can feel when it happens, they know what to do wheel wise to drive fine, some people are very bothered by it.

• Chase Bays Dual Piston Brake Booster Delete w/ Brake Line Kit (Controllable braking that doesn't aggressively alter weight transfer)
• Chase Bays Hydro Handbrake - Forward Mount or Reverse Mount
• Chase Bays Handbrake Bracket for S13 / S14 / S15
• Chase Bays Handbrake Brake Lines
• Z32 300ZX Front and Rear Brakes
• Hawk HP+ Brake Pads Front and Rear
• Chase Bays Oil Cooler Kit
• Chase Bays Oil Catch Can Kit

Stage 2 Alignment Specs (same as Stage 1)
Front
Camber: -5º to -7° (can give or take depending on wheel fitment)
Caster: 7º-9º
Toe: 7mm toe out PER side (Daily driven cars can go to 4mm Toe Out per side)
Rear
0 camber
0 toe

Stock Fender and Quarter Wheel Specs that work with Stage 2 Angle
(angle will be limited until you run wider fenders)
Front: 17x8 +25 or 18x8 +25
225/45-17 or 225/40-18 200A or 300A (Valino 08C is the best tire for front)

Rear: 18x9 +25 or 18x9.5 +30
235/40-18 300A (Valino 08C is the best tire for rear)
You will likely run 40-70psi rear tire pressure, that's normal.

Aftermarket Fender and Rear Overfender Wheel Specs
(both +30mm and +55mm are available and can work with this stage, but upgrading straight to +55mm will allow you to only have to replace fenders once)
+30mm Front:
17x8 +10 thru 17x9 +0
225/45-17 or 235/40-17 200A or 300A (Valino 08C is the best tire for front)
OR
18x8 +10 thru 18x9 +0
225/40-18 or 235/40-18 200A or 300A (Valino 08C is the best tire for front)

+30mm Rear: 18x9 -5 or 18x10 +0
235/40-18 300A (Valino 08C is the best tire for rear)
You will likely run 40-70psi rear tire pressure, that's normal.

+55mm Front: 17x9 -15 or 18x9 -15
225/40-17 or 225/40-18 200A

+55mm Rear: 18x9 -20 or 18x10 -10
255/35-18 or 265/35-18 300A (Valino 08C is the best tire for rear)
You will likely run 40-70psi rear tire pressure, that's normal.

Stage 3 Drift Package

Recommended for those who have fully maximized the power capabilities. 400-600hp.

Greddy Front Mount or PBM High Mount Intercooler Kit
Link or Haltech ECU w/ Plug-n-Play Harness Adapter
VR38/VQ35 Coilpack Conversion
Koyo N Flo or Chase Bays Tucked Radiator
Chase Bays 1700 CFM 11" Fans and Fan Relay Harness
Engine and Trans Mounts
Safety21 Bolt In Roll Cage

SR20DET Specific to Stage 3:

Spectrum Motorsports SR48x Turbo Kit for SR20DET
Denstoj Rocker Retainers (installs without any extensive work in cyl head)
Stance Oversized Water Pump Pulley

KA24DE-T Specific to Stage 3:

Garrett GTX3076R or G30-660 Turbo Upgrade
ATI Crankshaft Damper

Stage 3 Alignment Specs
Front:
Camber: -6º to -7° (can give or take depending on wheel fitment)
Caster: 8º-9º
Toe: 7mm toe out PER side (Daily driven cars can go to 4mm Toe Out per side)
Rear:
0 camber
0 toe

Stock Fender and Quarter Wheel Specs that work with Stage 3 Angle
Front: 17x8 +25 thru 17x9 +10
225/40-17 or 225/45-17 200A

Rear: 18x9 +25
235/40-18 200A

Aftermarket Fender and Rear Overfender Wheel Specs that work with Stage 3 Angle
+55mm Front: 17x9 -15 or 18x9 -15
225/40-17 or 225/40-18 200A

+55mm Rear: 18x9 -20 or 18x10 -10
255/35-18 or 265/35-18 300A

Fitment Notes:
18x9 or 18x10 recommended over 8.5" or 9.5" since 225 thru 265 fits on a 9" and 235 thru 265 fits on a 10" wheel. The tire size can grow with you and the car.
Front can use 18's but 17's fit and drive better for drifting, especially on S13.

At this level, stock fender and quarter widths are not recommended due to scrub radius requirements. Every manufacturer of aftermarket fenders choose different widths depending on the model, and some have seen variances in listed versus actual increased widths. Take this into consideration when purchasing wheels for widened fenders versus using spacers with existing wheels to accurately fit the wheel/tire combo.

Wider rear tires widths than 265 can be used if you use a 400A+ compound, however we have found that a narrower tire with a proper compound is more consistent while offering the same level of grip adjustment with pressure changes.

Stage 3 Drift Package - Engine Swap

Recommended for those who want more power, and are willing to expand their build beyond the factory engine at the cost of additional complexity. Both swaps are recommended to be paired with 6 speed Z33 350Z or 5 speed Z32 300ZX transmission

Helpful Swap Accessories:
Chase Bays Power Steering Rack Lines - Easier routing around oil pan size / location
Chase Bays Power Steering Kit - Engine Specific
Chase Bays Oil Cooler Kit - Engine Specific
Chase Bays Clutch Line w/ Flow Valve - Transmission Specific
Chase Bays Clutch Master Cylinder Adapter and Upgraded Master Cylinder - Transmission / Clutch Combo may require a new bore size

1JZ VVTi:
Collins Transmission Adapter and Swap Mounts
Swift Front Coilover Springs (Stiffer rate by 2-4 kg/mm)
Parts Shop Max (PBM) LimitBreak Front Sway Bar S13 or S14/S15
Chase Bays 1JZ VVTi Oil Line

GM LS3 (Aluminum Block HIGHLY Preferred):
LOJ Swap Kit
Chase Bays LS Oil Catch Can Kit