Ever since this chassis was released in 2012, I have been a big fan. We got one back then and color changed it, supercharged it, and took it to SEMA. We have owned, built, and maximized all the popular chassis: S13/S15, R34, Z32, Z33, E36, E46, JZX100, C6, S2000...all of them! I believe this chassis is the EASIEST to work on, can be set up for INSANE levels of grip in drift and road race/time attack, and can be as stylish as what we regard as legacy chassis like the S chassis, R34, or JZX100. I also think what’s cooler is we are taking part in building its legacy too. It's a regular on drift and track podiums, has won D1 and Driftmasters championships, and still maintains a big street style movement that I believe is as important as the former.

Just to get this out of the way, I think the FA20 / FA24 is a great engine that got a bad rep much like Rotaries and RB engines because of two reasons: bad tuners and a lot of grip. I think they have a limit that we have to respect. A limit we personally found. Let me explain:

1) Bad Tuners - The first 10 years we did not have a great tuners with the sole tuning platform (ECUTEK). ECUTEK has come a long way and is incredible nowadays, it's a very capable software but there was just not a lot of good tuners in that world. I have personally blown an engine thanks to one and when you understand tuning and see what he did, it's sad. Motec was available early on but it's $4,000+ and that is difficult to swing for a grassroots guy. We had Motec on our 400hp FA20 but I get it...it's unreasonable. The limiter on those sound great though. Now we have LINK and way improved ECUTEK which are fantastic and best of all they are affordable and COMPLETELY plug and play. There are plenty of great tuners to choose from that tune LINK/ECUTEK like Counterspace Garage.

2) A lot of grip - It is shocking how much forward drive and side bite these have on track once you get good coilovers, alignment, traction arm drop, and 200A tires on it. Because of this force and the flat engine, we get oil slosh, which starves the engine, and off to heaven it goes. The internet goes haywire scratching their heads trying to solve a problem that was solved decades ago on other engines with a simple oil pan baffle. If you take a C6 Z06 to the track stock and track it, it will blow up. If you tell other owners what you did they will ask "Did you put an oil pan baffle (or dry sump) on it?". Most engines will blow up without a baffle when you apply significant lateral acceleration. It is interesting when you're deep in motorsports and know the basics but others do not and are trying to solve an already solved problem. I digress...GRcup is the biggest proof of concept that supports my case. 2 seasons of 30+ FA24's with aero and SLICKS at very high lateral acceleration tracks, all they have is a Gazoo Racing design oil pan baffle. Same thing Moroso sells.

3) Knowing the limit - I feel VERY confident that the FA20 / 24 platform can be turbo'd, tuned well, and make around 350whp with ethanol to run for years if cared for. Anything above that the engine itself cannot supply enough oil to keep the engine happy. The oil pressure won't event drop...the crank and rods just don't get enough lubrication. Yes 400hp could work fine in a street car but this is a drift guide so we assume you'll be drifting hard. I know this from PERSONAL experience...we had a built FA20 and the pressure didn't drop but the rod bearings went and the rod had heat discoloration.

If you want to make more than 350hp with tons of runway for 500+ then we've got a great solution for you. EZ30 Flat 6. We've been developing this incredible unknown and low effort swap for a year now. Go ahead and plan on doing that somewhere after Stage 1 and you've got some seat time. It is the BEST bang for buck engine for the car, sounds the best, is the lightest, and maintains the low center of gravity in the front these are known for. BIG write up on the EZ swap HERE. It's VERY affordable too.

Now that that's out of the way we can move into a back story and setup. Brief look at our first build from 2013:

That car got totaled sadly and I was struggling in the business some (circa 2015) so I moved on a bit and got a crappy little E36 to get seat time. The ZN6 chassis was very new still and people weren't doing much more than suspension and basic bolt-ons so our products didn't have a place yet. Then in 2020 I got another one and wanted to make it the perfect daily drifter. You can see that series here:

Since then I have been drifting / tracking it non stop and of course we have learned a TON about the FA20 and ZN6 platform. For example our entire GLTC Road Road season in our K24 ZN6: (Full disclosure we removed the K24 since it did not work out well for us, and are 100% in on the EZ30 platform. We DO NOT recommend the K24 swap to anyone. It is WAY too much money and effort for what you are getting. GREAT engine in Honda's.

I explain this to show instead of just telling you that we really dug deep into the chassis and you can trust what we say since it's based in real world experience. We are doing the testing and development so you don't have to. We have ZERO part sponsors so anything we recommend is because we believe in it and use it ourselves.

Okay let's talk set up. I am going to break this up into stage 1, 2, and 3 and give an alignment setting for each level which is associated with power.

Stage 1 Drift Spec - Whether you're experienced or just starting out this still applies. This setup is phase one in getting you acclimated the chassis with a proper setup. Nothing hinders growth more than a bad set up so if you follow this, know its right and if you can't drift it then its driver not car. Each product has an explanation of why it's included in stage 1 when you click individual links.

Stage 1 Drift ZN6 / ZN8

• Chase Bays Clutch Line w/ Flow Control Valve (Flow Valve VERY important with these transmissions)
• Chase Bays Caliper Lines Extended for Drift
• SLR x Chase Bays Spec Coilovers - 10k F / 7k R COMING SOON
• Hardrace Pillowball Rear Adjustable LCA - HR-Q1268
• SLR x Chase BaysRear Traction Arm Mod Drop Kit COMING SOON
(FDF or GP Sports for now)
• KAAZ 2-Way L.S.D. w/ Super Q - SAT2080SQ
• HKS Hi-Power Racing Version Single Exhaust - 32016-BT002
• Racing Seat to Hold-You-Tight (Thrash, Bride, Recaro…)
• Bride Seat Rail Type FG
LHD - T902FG
RHD - T901FG

Stage 1 Alignment Specs
Front
Camber: -5º to -7° (can give or take depending on wheel fitment)
Caster: 8-9º (caster is your friend, especially with EPS)
Toe: 7mm toe out PER side (Daily driven cars can go to 4mm Toe Out per side) DO NOT SKIP THIS. Toe out helps with the car rotating, you know all those videos of the cars that faint entry but don't turn back around and hit a wall? Yeah they have no toe out. IMPORTANT don't learn the hard way. Front tires getting replaced every few months is cheaper than going off and costing thousands.

Rear
0 camber
0 toe

Stock Fender and Quarter Wheel Specs that still work with Stage 2 Angle. It's okay to use wheel spacers (safely) to get it where you need it.

Front: 17x7.5 +16 or 18x7.5 +16
17 - 215/45-17 or 225/45-17
18 - 215/40-18 or 225/40-18
200A or 300A (Valino 08C is the perfect front tire)

You will have to limit angle in Stage 2 with Stock Fenders. If you have +25mm or +55mm Fenders (Origin) then you open up a lot of options for wheels and tire and will never have to worry about hitting chassis or sway bar. Some of the above tire sizes are not available with many options. If you have +25mm or +55mm fenders then you can just add the difference, ideally you open up a ton of inner clearance and of course keep the wheel/tire flush with fender. Sometimes you are stuck with a wheel in the style you want and you can use spacers to make them fit, we are just telling you what works and clears inner and outer. This website is a useful tool LINK.

225 is PLENTY of front tire, no drift car needs more than 235.

+25mm Fender Wheel Specs - 17x7.5 -9 or 18x7.5 -9
+55mm Fender Wheel Specs - 17x8.5 -25 or 18x8.5 -25

Rear: 18x9 +35 or 18x9.5 +41
225/40-18 300A or 400A+
(Valino 08C is the perfect rear drift tire)

Don't be afraid of adding pressure. 60-70+ psi rear pressure with lower pressure is fine. Tires wear weird sometimes but it's better than fighting the car and shocking the drivetrain.

18x9 or 18x9.5 recommended since 225 thru 265 fits on a 9" & 9.5" and the tire size can grow with you and the car. 8.5" is too small, 10" is too large. 265 on a 9" or 9.5" is perfect so we're just future proofing. Again wheel spacers will be your friend. Most wheel companies offer 18x9 or 18x9.5 is the +10 to +15 range so its okay to add spacer to get you flush post alignment!

+25mm Fender Wheel Specs - 18x9 +10 or 18x9.5 +16
+55mm Fender Wheel Specs - 18x9 -20 or 18x9.5 -14

Stage 2 Drift Package

All items below linked above in package deal

• Torque Solution Subframe Inserts - STS-FRS-005R
• Torque Solution Diff Inserts - TS-SU-761
• Parts Shop Max Angle Kit (run setting 5 on Ackermann)
• Parts Shop Max Rear Toe Arm
• Chase Bays Handbrake
• Chase Bays Handbrake Bracket for ZN6 / ZN8
• Chase Bays Handbrake Brake Line Kit
• Chase Bays Oil Cooler (only if keeping FA)
• Chase Bays Catch Can Kit (only if keeping FA)
• Moroso Oil Pan Baffle (only if keeping FA)
• IAG Oil Pickup (only if keeping FA)

Stage 2 Alignment Specs (same as stage 1)
Front
Camber: -5º to -7° (can give or take depending on wheel fitment)
Caster: 8-9º
Toe: 7mm toe out PER side (Daily driven cars can go to 4mm Toe Out per side)
Rear
0 camber 
0 toe

Same Wheel/Tire Specs Front and Rear as Stage 1 but upgrade to 235 rear if you're starting to need a little more forward drive and side bite. (forward drive is on throttle grip, side bite is off throttle "float" and during handbrake). 225 is fine if you want to stay there.

Stage 3 Drift Package Turbo Version

This is good for around 350hp on Ethanol. This is where you need to decide if you're going to be happy with 350hp for years to come or you want more runway, in which case you should get our EZ30 H6 Swap Kit. Current release date is late Sept 2026.

• HKS Turbo Kit - 11001-KT001
• JDL 3" Over / Front Pipe Combo
• Denstoj Rocker Retainers (installs without any extensive work in cyl head but does require removing engine.)
• CSG ECUTEK Tuning Package
• CSG Flex Fuel Kit
• Chase Bays Dual Piston Manual Brake w/ 6:1 Pedal Ratio
• Chase Bays Brake Line Relocation for Dual Piston Manual Brake
• Chase Bays Ultra Radiator, Fan Shroud, and Brushless Fans
• Chase Bays Swirl Pot Kit
• Stiffer Engine and Trans Mounts
• Spec Stage 3+ Clutch and Steel Flywheel
• Servtronic EPS Controller
• Hotchkis 25.4mm Front Sway Bar Kit
• Parts Shop Max Rear Upper Control Arm
• We DO NOT recommend using an adjustable Rear Traction / Tension Arm, it adjusts caster in the rear which is BAD. With the Traction Arm DROP from stage 1 it keeps it centered in the wheel arch. Replace with Hardrace Fixed Rear Traction / Tension Arm.

Stage 3 Alignment Specs (still no changes, we're just upping tire sizes)

We recommend changing to a 265 tire now, Valino 08C is the best tire ever don't use anything else. It last twice as long and has crazy grip so even if the price is lower for something else these are cheaper since they last twice as long.