Ever since this chassis was released in 2012, I have been a big fan. We got one back then and color changed it, supercharged it, and took it to SEMA. We have owned, built, and maximized all the popular chassis: S13/S15, R34, Z32, Z33, E36, E46, JZX100, C6, S2000...all of them! I believe this chassis is the EASIEST to work on, can be set up for INSANE levels of grip in drift and road race/time attack, and can be as stylish as what we regard as legacy chassis like the S chassis, R34, or JZX100. I also think what’s cooler is we are taking part in building its legacy too. It's a regular on drift and track podiums, has won D1 and Driftmasters championships, and still maintains a big street style movement that I believe is as important as the former.

Just to get this out of the way, I think the FA20 / FA24 is a great engine that got a bad rep much like Rotaries and RB engines because of two reasons: bad tuners and a lot of grip. I think they have a limit that we have to respect. A limit we personally found. Let me explain:

1) Bad Tuners - The first 10 years we did not have a great tuners with the sole tuning platform (ECUTEK). ECUTEK has come a long way and is incredible nowadays, it's a very capable software but there was just not a lot of good tuners in that world. I have personally blown an engine thanks to one and when you understand tuning and see what he did, it's sad. Motec was available early on but it's $4,000+ and that is difficult to swing for a grassroots guy. We had Motec on our 400hp FA20 but I get it...it's unreasonable. The limiter on those sound great though. Now we have LINK and way improved ECUTEK which are fantastic and best of all they are affordable and COMPLETELY plug and play. There are plenty of great tuners to choose from that tune LINK/ECUTEK like Counterspace Garage.

2) A lot of grip - It is shocking how much forward drive and side bite these have on track once you get good coilovers, alignment, traction arm drop, and 200A tires on it. Because of this force and the flat engine, we get oil slosh, which starves the engine, and off to heaven it goes. The internet goes haywire scratching their heads trying to solve a problem that was solved decades ago on other engines with a simple oil pan baffle. If you take a C6 Z06 to the track stock and track it, it will blow up. If you tell other owners what you did they will ask "Did you put an oil pan baffle (or dry sump) on it?". Most engines will blow up without a baffle when you apply significant lateral acceleration. It is interesting when you're deep in motorsports and know the basics but others do not and are trying to solve an already solved problem. I digress...GRcup is the biggest proof of concept that supports my case. 2 seasons of 30+ FA24's with aero and SLICKS at very high lateral acceleration tracks, all they have is a Gazoo Racing design oil pan baffle. Same thing Moroso sells.

3) Knowing the limit - I feel VERY confident that the FA20 / 24 platform can be turbo'd, tuned well, and make around 375whp with ethanol to run for years if cared for. Anything above that the engine itself cannot supply enough oil to keep the engine happy. The oil pressure won't event drop...the crank and rods just don't get enough lubrication. Yes 400hp could work fine in a street car but this is a drift guide so we assume you'll be drifting hard. I know this from PERSONAL experience...we had a built FA20 and the pressure didn't drop but the rod bearings went and the rod had heat discoloration.

If you want to make more than 350 with tons of runway for 500+ then we've got a great solution for you. EZ30 Flat 6. We've been developing this incredible unknown and low effort swap for a year now. Go ahead and plan on doing that somewhere after Stage 1 and you've got some seat time. BIG write up on the EZ swap HERE. It's VERY affordable too.

Now that that's out of the way we can move into a back story and setup. Brief look at our first build from 2013:

That car got totaled sadly and I was struggling in the business some (circa 2015) so I moved on a bit and got a crappy little E36 to get seat time. The ZN6 chassis was very new still and people weren't doing much more than suspension and basic bolt-ons so our products didn't have a place yet. Then in 2020 I got another one and wanted to make it the perfect daily drifter. You can see that series here:

Since then I have been drifting / tracking it non stop and of course we have learned a TON about the FA20 and ZN6 platform. For example our entire GLTC Road Road season in our K24 ZN6: (Full disclosure we are removing the K24 since it did not work out well for us, and are 100% in on the EZ30 platform.

I explain this to show instead of just telling you that we really dug deep into the chassis and you can trust what we say since it's based in real world experience. We are doing the testing and development so you don't have to. We have ZERO part sponsors so anything we recommend is because we believe in it and use it ourselves.

Okay let's talk set up. I am going to break this up into stage 1, 2, and 3 and give an alignment setting for each level which is associated with power.

Stage 1 Drift Spec - Whether you're experienced or just starting out this still applies. This setup is phase one in getting you acclimated the chassis with a proper setup. Nothing hinders growth more than a bad set up so if you follow this, know its right and if you can't drift it then its driver not car. Each product has an explanation of why it's included in stage 1 when you click individual links.

Stage 1 Drift ZN6 / ZN8

SLR x Chase Bays Spec Coilovers - 10k F / 7k R
Cusco Pillowball Rear Camber LCA
GP Sports Rear Traction Arm Mod Drop Kit w/ Rigid Collar
KAAZ 2-Way L.S.D. w/ Super Q
HKS Hi-Power Racing Version Single Exhaust
Bride Seat Rail Type FG Left LHD (for RHD click here)

Stage 1 Alignment Specs
Front
Camber: -5º to -7° (can give or take depending on wheel fitment)
Caster: 9º
Toe: 7mm toe out PER side (Daily driven cars can go to 4mm Toe Out per side)
Rear
0 camber 
0 toe

Stock Fender and Quarter Wheel Specs that still work with Stage 2 Angle
Front: 17x7.5 +16 OR 17x7 +10
215/40-17 or 215/45-17 200A

Rear: 18x9 +35
225/40-18 400A+

18x9 recommended over 8.5" or 9.5" since 225 thru 265 fits on a 9" and the tire size can grow with you and the car.

Front can use 18's but 17's fit and drive better for drifting.

Stage 2 Drift Package

All items below linked above in package deal

Torque Solution Subframe Inserts STS-FRS-005R
Torque Solution Diff Inserts TS-SU-761
Parts Shop Max Angle Kit (run setting 5 on Ackermann)
Chase Bays Handbrake / Chassis Bracket / HB Brake Line Kit
Chase Bays Oil Cooler
Chase Bays Catch Can Kit
Chase Bays Clutch Line w/ Flow Valve (Flow Valve VERY important)
Moroso Oil Pan Baffle and IAG Oil Pickup

Stage 2 Alignment Specs
Front
Camber: -5º to -7° (can give or take depending on wheel fitment)
Caster: 9º
Toe: 7mm toe out PER side (Daily driven cars can go to 4mm Toe Out per side)
Rear
0 camber 
0 toe

Stock Fender and Quarter Wheel Specs that work with Stage 2 Angle
Front: 17x7.5 +16 OR 17x7 +10
215/40-17 or 215/45-17 200A

Rear: 18x9 +35
225/40-18 300A

18x9 recommended over 8.5" or 9.5" since 225 thru 265 fits on a 9" and the tire size can grow with you and the car.

Front can use 18's or 17's, 215 to 225 and pay attention to tire height.

Stage 3 Drift Package Turbo Version

All items below linked above in package deal. This is good for around 325hp. We of course recommend the Turbo version but we understand people want to stay NA and keep it lower power so we have an NA Version below.

HKS Turbo Kit
JDL 3" Over / Front Pipe Combo
Denstoj Rocker Retainers (installs without any extensive work in cyl head)
JGP E85 Kit
Link
Hotchkis 25.4mm Front / 19mm Rear Sway Bar Kit
EPS Controller
Radiator
Engine and Trans Mounts

Stage 3 Alignment Specs
Front
Camber: -6º to -7° (can give or take depending on wheel fitment)
Caster: 8º
Toe: 7mm toe out PER side (Daily driven cars can go to 4mm Toe Out per side)
Rear
0 camber 
0 toe

Stock Fender and Quarter Wheel Specs that work with Stage 2 Angle
Front: 17x7.5 +16 OR 17x7 +10
215/40-17 or 215/45-17 200A

Rear: 18x9 +35
255/35-18 or 265/35-18 300A

18x9 recommended over 8.5" or 9.5" since 225 thru 265 fits on a 9" and the tire size can grow with you and the car.

Front can use 18's but 17's fit and drive better for drifting.

Stage 3 Drift Package NA Version

All items below linked above in package deal. This is good for around 220hp.

JDL 4-2-1 Header
JDL 3" Over / Front Pipe Combo
Denstoj Rocker Retainers (installs without any extensive work in cyl head)
JGP E85 Kit
Link
Hotchkis 25.4mm Big Front Sway
EPS Controller
Radiator
Engine and Trans Mounts

Stage 3 Alignment Specs
Front
Camber: -6º to -7° (can give or take depending on wheel fitment)
Caster: 8º
Toe: 7mm toe out PER side (Daily driven cars can go to 4mm Toe Out per side)
Rear
0 camber 
0 toe

Stock Fender and Quarter Wheel Specs that work with Stage 2 Angle
Front: 17x7.5 +16 OR 17x7 +10
215/40-17 or 215/45-17 200A

Rear: 18x9 +35
255/35-18 or 265/35-18 300A

18x9 recommended over 8.5" or 9.5" since 225 thru 265 fits on a 9" and the tire size can grow with you and the car.

Front can use 18's but 17's fit and drive better for drifting.