Chase Bays Tucked Aluminum Radiator - Nissan 240sx S13 / S14 / S15 and R32
The 14” Chase Bays Tucked Radiator for Nissan 240sx Silvia S chassis and Skyline R32 is designed for those wanting to open up space in their crowded engine bays and get a better look aesthetically. This radiator is a cooling upgrade, it offers more fluid capacity than stock, more direct airflow, and dual pass design. We shorten the radiator but add depth and width. It is mounted under the core support to open up to 6" inches of space. This radiator has been rigorously track/drift tested and is on countless show winning engine bays.
We've designed this all aluminum radiator to fill every bit of space under the core support while still being able to run (2) 12” fans if using our required shroud. This radiator requires some light cutting of the front core support. We wanted to make the radiator as large as possible while staying under the core support. To accomplish this we had to cut into the chassis. This does NOT work with pop-up headlights since the motors are in the way of where the radiator sits. You can change to permanent up or do a sleepy eye headlight / HID retrofit.
We offer 2 different fans as an option. Although there are many factors in keeping a car properly cooled, we'll assume you have all your bases covered (good water pump, no leaks, sufficient wiring, etc). Its important that each fan is on its own relay with proper sized wiring and that the fill point is actually the highest point in the system. These 2 things are the most commonly overlooked. For this reason we make a Dual Fan Relay Harness with 180º F Thermoswitch that greatly simplifies the wiring (couldn't be easier).
• Mishimoto 12" Fan | 1,150 CFM each > 2,300 CFM total | $67.50 each
• Mishimoto Race Line HD Fan 12" | 1,700 CFM each > 3,400 CFM total!! | $120 each (must use shroud since the fans are so powerful)
We see people using the cylinder count as the measurement for how powerful their fans need to be. We've learned this isn't the best method for our overclocked engines. Its best to go by power rating. 400hp and under can use the less lesser powered fan, 401hp and over should use the higher powered fans. However, this is only a one time purchase and we recommend going with the higher powered ones no matter what. The Mishimoto Raceline Fans are 1.5 inch thicker than the Mishimoto fans so they will take up more space. Luckily with this radiator you'll still have plenty of room. Installed photos can be seen on the photo scroll above, beige S chassis with SR20DET.
Modular Inlet/Outlet and Reversible Orientation
We have designed the radiator to be completely reversible with interchangeable inlet/outlet types. The radiator inlet and outlet have to be on the same side since it is a dual pass design. Formerly when you purchased a radiator through us you would have to select driver or passenger side. With our new design the radiator orientation is completely reversible. It looks the same on top and bottom plus the brackets are centered.
The inlet and outlet are -20AN female threads. So we thread in whichever adapters you need. If you change your mind down the road, there is no cutting and welding. Just threading on new adapters. We offer OE style in 1.5" as well as -20AN. We recommend you put the radiator orientation closer to the upper water neck.
We do NOT recommend -16AN for the popular swapped engines and we give a fair warning about -20AN. The stock inner diameter of hose for SR/RB/KA/CA, 1JZ/2JZ, and GM LS engines is 1.5" inch. -16AN is 1" inch and -20AN is 1.25" inch. By going with those, you are creating a restriction that is normally not there. -20AN is usually fine but -16AN you're reducing the flow by 34%.
Dual Pass Design
This simply means the coolant passes through TWO times instead of ONE. Which, even more simply put means TWICE the cooling and half the size. The inlet and outlet are on the same side of the radiator and a plate is welded inside between the two inlets. The radiator has two L brackets on each side that you bolt to your core support. This radiator doesn't use any of the OEM radiator mounting points, and it's easier to install and un-install.
Since the top of our radiator sits about 8" to 12" lower than stock, we have to make a new fill point. The first step is getting an inline filler neck, luckily you can now get that through us. The way you setup the filler neck will make your hose selection easier. Our personal favorite is on the radiator itself using our Chase Bays Raised Modular Filler Neck. We've attached a photo of this below.
To do this just select -20AN for one side of the Chase Bays Filler Neck when selecting options. The other side will be whatever hoses you choose to go with. So if you were using OE Push-On style Silicone Hoses, you would select "1.38mm Normal Hose" for one option and "-20AN" for the other. The -20AN side will thread right into the radiator then you will twist the filler neck onto that. With the thick O-Ring Seal on both side, getting the filler neck 0º vertical is easy with the adjustment of both sides.
The other option is putting it on the upper water neck via clamp or welding (which will require some fabrication work).
27.16" x 13.5" x 3" inch
Each radiator is water pressure tested to 30psi. Your radiator shouldn’t see more than 16-19psi before the radiator cap spring does its job and expands into the overflow.