Welcome to the 1JZ-GTE and 2JZ-GTE BMW mega info page! We made this since we needed to centralize all the good info from the original facebook group. https://www.facebook.com/groups/881311128552068/
If you have any contribution you can post it on the sticky post of the facebook group and we will add it. A lot of this is personal experience since we've built a 1JZ VVTi E30 and 1JZ VVTi E36 but most of the info was contributed by members of the facebook group.
Disclaimer: This is all 1JZ and 2JZ BMW pertinent info. Mounts, transmissions, plumbing, electronics, etc. For engine specific things like turbo sizing and internal upgrades, there is plenty of info in other places.
1JZ-GTE and 2JZ-GTE Engine/Transmission Info
Table of Contents
2) Transmissions & Adapters
3) Wiring / Electronics
We’ll begin at the engine and where it comes from. If you really want to know everything, read this: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_JZ_engine but below we’ll cliff notes it for you. Simply put there are 4 basic variations of the Toyota JZ engine.
- 1JZ-GTE Twin Turbo (90-07) 280hp @ 6200rpm and 268 ft-lbs @ 4800rpm
- 1JZ-GTE VVTi Single Turbo (96-07) 280hp @ 6200rpm and 280 lb-ft’s @ 2400rpm
- 2JZ-GTE Twin Turbo (91-05) Japanese Engines - 276 hp @ 5600 rpm and 333 ft-lbs @ 4000rpm. US and Euro Engines - 321 hp @ 5600 rpm and 333 ft-lbs @ 4000rpm
- 2JZ-GTE VVTi Twin Turbo (97-05) 321 hp @ 5600 rpm and 333 ft-lbs @ 4000rpm
E30 - Front Sump
E36 and E46 - Rear Sump
Pros and Cons of VVTi - It's great, especially the 1JZ since its single turbo and higher torque.
Our personal opinion is that the BMW transmission and PMC adapter is the best option. BMW transmissions are strong, light, affordable and very easy to create a shifter solution (unlike the 350Z / 370Z CD009). The CD001/009 is long, heavy, and not any stronger than a ZF 5 speed. It will put your shifter about 7" farther back than your current shifter. There is a shifter solution but its $350+.
You can use an OE BMW shifter with BMW trans, just shorten the linkage. You could also get a Bimmerworld, AKG, CAE, etc shifter. This eliminates the upper shifter arm for a more solid feel. Then you just have to shorten the lower stabilizer shifter arm.
Getrag 420G - Strongest 6 speed option from E46 M3. The 420G from the E39 540 and M5 will not work. Great for higher power cars, 900hp is usually the breaking point.
ZF 6 Speed - Any non-M 6 speed E46. Great for medium power. 550hp and below.
ZF 5 speed - E36 M3 and 328, E46 330 5 speed. Great for medium power. 550hp and below.
Getrag 5 speed - 325 and 323 E36. Only 6 cyl trans will work. Weakest trans, not recommended.
There is a big question mark for what clutch to use with the PMC. PMC says 240mm but thats too vague since the bolt pattern of the most popular 240mm isn’t correct for how PMC sets it up. The correct clutch pressure plate to use is E46 M3 then you match you disc with the trans. So if you're running a ZF E36 M3/328is trans, you will use an E46 M3 plate and E36 M3 Disc. We have worked with Spec to provide an off the shelf clutch.
Spec Stage 1 Part # - SB661S-862 [430 ft lbs tq]
Spec Stage 2 Part # - SB662S-862 [485 ft lbs tq]
Spec Stage 3 Part # - SB663S-862 [580 ft lbs tq]
Spec Stage 4 Part # - SB664-862 [671 ft lbs tq]
Spec Stage 5 Part # - SB665S-862 [820 ft lbs tq]
Or you can piece something together using this pressure plate and any other matched-to-trans disc.
3) Wiring / Electronics
This is somewhat chassis specific but here's a quick run down. The stock JDM ECU for 1JZ and 2JZ VVTi or non-VVTi can work great if its wired correctly. Thousands of people around the world use stock ECU with manual booster controller and Apexi AFC Neo/SAFC to change air/fuel maps and make up to 500hp reliably for years. For 90% of us thats plenty of power and we're happy. If you're beyond that then maybe a stand alone is a consideration.
We owned an engine wiring harness company for 9 years (before we sold it). We saw non-stop crap from stand alone ECU's. We'd have to troubleshoot for hours and hours while eating our small profit margins away. Customer would blame the wiring and it would turn out to be a stand alone setup issue. Or it would spontaneously just drop the tune.
I swore to never build a car with a stand alone ever. Its ridiculously expensive to setup right and can bug out after a year of being fine. Re-flashed stock ECU is possible on most ECU's. For Toyota ECU's it is not possible but as stated above, Apexi Neo is a good solution. Thats just my experienced and potentially jaded opinion. Obviously there is a need for stand alone ECU's on race cars and I am not saying they should be obsolete. It should just not be used unless its absolutely required.