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(CB-E30-OEMC/HB) Chase Bays BMW E30 In-Line Hydro Handbrake Line Kit for OEMC

(CB-E30-BBE/HB) Chase Bays BMW E30 In-Line Hydro Handbrake Line Kit for BBE or OEMC Brake Line Relocation Kit Equipped Car

(CB-E30-HB) Chase Bays BMW E30 Stand Alone Hydro Handbrake Line Kit

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BMW E30 In-Line Hydro Handbrake Line Kit for OEMC (CB-E30-OEMC/HB) 

1. First thing's first, we always recommend starting by mounting the handbrake in the location that you desire and bench bleeding the master cylinder prior to connecting the lines to it. The easiest way to bench bleed the Master Cylinder in your Handbrake is to connect a short brake line to the "in" fitting and another short line to the "out" fitting on the handbrake. These can be new lines from our Handbrake Brake Line Kit or some scrap lines that you have laying around. Then, make sure that the free end of those lines are completely submerged in some sort of container of clean brake fluid. Slowly pump the master cylinder repeatedly until there are no bubbles coming out of either of the lines that are in the brake fluid. Make sure that the free ends of those lines are completely submerged in fluid. If they are exposed to air during the bench bleeding process they will suck air into the master cylinder and lengthen the process.
 
2. From there, you will need the longest line in the kit. The end with the 90˚ Male Fitting will be connected to the rear port on the ABS Block/Brake Master Cylinder. The other end of that line will be routed through the firewall and will then be connected to the "in" port on the Handbrake Master Cylinder using the 7/16 Adapter Fitting & 90˚ Adapter Fitting supplied with the kit.
 
3. Next, you will use the second longest line in the kit with the Chase Bays logo on it to connect to the "out" port on the Handbrake Master Cylinder. You will connect it using the supplied Banjo Hole Adapter and 3/8" Banjo Bolt. The end of the line with the Chase Bays logo on it should be closer to the Handbrake.
 
4. Now, you will want to drill 2 10mm or 3/8" holes on either side of the chassis to install the bulkhead fittings. Just be sure before drilling the holes that the 2 lines from the T Fitting will reach the bulkhead locations and that you will have access to the bulkhead fitting from under the car. The longer threaded shaft on the bulkhead fittings will go through those holes and will be secured from underneath the car using the supplied bulkhead nuts.
 
5. The T Fitting supplied with the kit will be threaded into the end of the line connected to the Handbrake "out" fitting. You will then use the two roughly 17" lines with straight fittings at either end to connect from either side of the T Fitting to each bulkhead fitting.
 
6. You should now only have 2 16" lines left. The straight fittings on those lines will be connected to the bulkhead fittings underneath the car. The 45˚ fittings will then be connected to the brake calipers using the supplied M10 to 3an Adapter Fittings.
 
7. Now that you have all of the lines connected and tight you will need to bleed the braking system. We have seen the best results using the two person method where one person is pumping the brake pedal and the other is bleeding fluid at the calipers. You can use a pressure bleeder, but in our experience they tend to give sub par results and cause more frustration.
 
You will want to start at the caliper furthest from the brake master cylinder (passenger rear) and work your way to the caliper that is closest to the brake master cylinder (driver front.) DO NOT ACTUATE THE HANDBRAKE DURING THE BLEEDING PROCESS! Doing so will create an air pocket that will then cause you to have to start the process all over again. You will bleed the calipers as if the Handbrake is not there.

 

BMW E30 In-Line Hydro Handbrake Line Kit for BBE or OEMC Brake Line Relocation Kit Equipped Car (CB-E30-BBE/HB)

1. First thing's first, we always recommend starting by mounting the handbrake in the location that you desire and bench bleeding the master cylinder prior to connecting the lines to it. The easiest way to bench bleed the Master Cylinder in your Handbrake is to connect a short brake line to the "in" fitting and another short line to the "out" fitting on the handbrake. These can be new lines from our Handbrake Brake Line Kit or some scrap lines that you have laying around. Then, make sure that the free end of those lines are completely submerged in some sort of container of clean brake fluid. Slowly pump the master cylinder repeatedly until there are no bubbles coming out of either of the lines that are in the brake fluid. Make sure that the free ends of those lines are completely submerged in fluid. If they are exposed to air during the bench bleeding process they will suck air into the master cylinder and lengthen the process.
 
2. From there, you will need the longest line in the kit. The end with the 90˚ Female Fitting will be connected to the "out" fitting on the Bias Valve. The other end of that line will be routed through the firewall and will then be connected to the "in" port on the Handbrake Master Cylinder using the 7/16 Adapter Fitting & 90˚ Adapter Fitting supplied with the kit.
 
3. Next, you will use the second longest line in the kit with the Chase Bays logo on it to connect to the "out" port on the Handbrake Master Cylinder. You will connect it using the supplied Banjo Hole Adapter and 3/8" Banjo Bolt. The end of the line with the Chase Bays logo on it should be closer to the Handbrake.
 
4. Now, you will want to drill 2 10mm or 3/8" holes on either side of the chassis to install the bulkhead fittings. Just be sure before drilling the holes that the 2 lines from the T Fitting will reach the bulkhead locations and that you will have access to the bulkhead fitting from under the car. The longer threaded shaft on the bulkhead fittings will go through those holes and will be secured from underneath the car using the supplied bulkhead nuts.
 
5. The T Fitting supplied with the kit will be threaded into the end of the line connected to the Handbrake "out" fitting. You will then use the two roughly 17" lines with straight fittings at either to connect from either side of the T Fitting to each bulkhead fitting.
 
6. You should now only have 2 16" lines left. The straight fittings on those lines will be connected to the bulkhead fittings underneath the car. The 45˚ fittings will then be connected to the brake calipers using the supplied M10 to 3an Adapter Fittings.
 
7. Now that you have all of the lines connected and tight you will need to bleed the braking system. We have seen the best results using the two person method where one person is pumping the brake pedal and the other is bleeding fluid at the calipers. You can use a pressure bleeder, but in our experience they tend to give sub par results and cause more frustration.
 
You will want to start at the caliper furthest from the brake master cylinder (passenger rear) and work your way to the caliper that is closest to the brake master cylinder (driver front.) DO NOT ACTUATE THE HANDBRAKE DURING THE BLEEDING PROCESS! Doing so will create an air pocket that will then cause you to have to start the process all over again. You will bleed the calipers as if the Handbrake is not there.

 

BMW E30 Stand Alone Hydro Handbrake Line Kit (CB-E30-HB)

1. The easiest way to bench bleed the Master Cylinder in your Handbrake is to connect a brake line to the "out" fitting on the Master Cylinder and then submerge the other end of that line in the Handbrake Reservoir. This can be a new line from our Handbrake Brake Line Kit or a scrap line that you have laying around. Then, make sure that the free end of the brake line is completely submerged in the reservoir. You will slowly pump the master cylinder repeatedly until there are no bubbles coming out of the free end of the line submerged in the brake fluid.
 
Make sure that the end of the line is completely submerged in fluid. If it is exposed to air during the bench bleeding process it will suck air into the master cylinder and will just lengthen the process.
 
2. With the bench bleeding complete, you will now want to use the longest line in the kit with the yellow Chase Bays label on it to connect to the "out" port on the Handbrake Master Cylinder. You will connect it using the supplied Banjo Hole Adapter and 3/8" Banjo Bolt. The end of the line with the Chase Bays logo on it should be closer to the Handbrake.
 
3. Now, you will want to drill 2 10mm or 3/8" holes on either side of the chassis to install the bulkhead fittings. Just be sure before drilling the holes that the 2 lines from the T Fitting will reach the bulkhead locations and that you will have access to the bulkhead fitting from under the car. The longer threaded shaft on the bulkhead fittings will go through those holes and will be secured from underneath the car using the supplied bulkhead nuts.
 
4. The T Fitting supplied with the kit will be threaded into the end of the line connected to the Handbrake "out" fitting. You will then use the two roughly 17" lines with straight fittings at either to connect from either side of the T Fitting to each bulkhead fitting.
 
5. You should now only have 2 16" lines left. The straight fittings on those lines will be connected to the bulkhead fittings underneath the car. The 45˚ fittings will then be connected to the brake calipers using the supplied M10 to 3an Adapter Fittings.
 
6. Now that you have all of the lines connected and tight you will need to bleed the rear calipers. We have seen the best results using the two person method where one person is pumping the Handbrake and the other is bleeding fluid at the calipers. You can use a pressure bleeder, but in our experience they tend to give sub par results and cause more frustration.
 
You will want to pump the Handbrake 5-10 times and on the last pump hold pressure on it. While holding the pressure, have your friend/assistant/child/boyfriend/girlfriend/neighbor to loosen the bleeder fitting on the caliper until no more fluid comes out of the caliper. Once the bleeder fitting is closed you can release the Handbrake Handle. You will want to continue this process until there are no air bubbles coming out of each caliper. Once complete the throw for the Handbrake should be significantly less.