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BMW E36 inBay with OEMC for 92-94 & 92-95 M3 (CB-E36-OEMC92)

1. You can start by mounting the Bias Valve on the passenger side bolt on the master cylinder.
 
2. The first line will be the short banjo to 90 that will install at the rear outlet on the master cylinder with the banjo bolt. It will run from there to the Bias Valve IN port.
 
3. The second line is the 3AN 90 to straight that attaches to the rear hardline. That will run from the OUT port on the Bias Valve while the female M10 fitting will connect to the rear hard line.
 
4. Next you will install the 10mm fitting and T that connects the 2 remaining lines to the front port of the master cylinder. The shorter of the 2 will run to the drivers side caliper line and the longer to the passenger side.
 
5. Now that everything is connected you will need to bleed each caliper, we suggest doing this with the Bias Valve knob all the way in (to the right) to give the most flow to the rear calipers. We have gotten the best results by using the two person method having one person pumping the pedal and another bleeding air at the caliper. You will want to start at the caliper furthest away from the master cylinder (passenger rear) and work your way to the closest caliper (driver front).
  
  

BMW E36 inBay with OEMC for 95-99 (CB-E36-OEMC)

1. You can start by mounting the Bias Valve on the passenger side bolt on the master cylinder.
 
2. The first line will be the short banjo to 90 that will install at the rear outlet on the master cylinder with the banjo bolt. It will run from there to the Bias Valve IN port.
 
3. The second line is the 3AN 90 to straight that attaches to the F-Fitting. That will run from the OUT port on the Bias Valve while the F-fitting will connect to the 2 rear hard lines.
 
4. Next you will install the 12mm fitting and T that connects the 2 remaining lines to the front port of the master cylinder. The shorter of the 2 will run to the drivers side fenderwell line and the longer to the passenger side.
 
5. Now that everything is connected you will need to bleed each caliper, we suggest doing this with the Bias Valve knob all the way in (to the right) to give the most flow to the rear calipers. We have gotten the best results by using the two person method having one person pumping the pedal and another bleeding air at the caliper. You will want to start at the caliper furthest away from the master cylinder (passenger rear) and work your way to the closest caliper (driver front).
  
  

BMW E36 with Single Piston Brake Booster Delete for 92-94 & 92-95 M3 (CB-E36-BBE-92)

1. We recommend having the ABS module (if applicable) removed and the Brake Booster Eliminator and Bias Valve installed before connecting the lines in this Brake Line Relocation. To install the BBE and Bias Valve, follow the steps below. If you already have these products installed, continue to step 2.
 
Brake Booster Eliminator Installation:
  • Disconnect the brake lines at the master cylinder/abs module and remove from the engine bay.
  • Install the BBE through the holes in the firewall where the OE Master Cylinder/Brake Booster was located and secure it using the 4 5/16" nuts supplied with the BBE.
  • Adjust the clevis on the BBE so that the pin can slide through it and the brake pedal without having to manipulate either to get the holes to line up.
  • Tighten the 5/16 x 24 nut on the Master Cylinder rod against the clevis to keep it from moving.
Bench Bleeding: 
  • We recommend bench bleeding the BBE Master Cylinder prior to connecting the Bias Valve. This is easiest done by securing one of the brake lines in your Brake Line Relocation Kit to the 3an banjo adapter on the Master Cylinder and putting the other end of the line in the Brake Reservoir.
  • Fill up the reservoir with brake fluid and begin pumping the pedal, making sure that the free end of the Brake Line is completely submerged in brake fluid.
  • Continue pumping the pedal for a few minutes until you can not see any bubbles coming out of the Brake Line in the reservoir. Once there are no more bubbles you're good to go!
 
Bias Valve Installation:
  • Remove the nut securing the bottom of the BBE Master Cylinder to the mounting plate and slide the Bias Valve bracket over the stud so that it is hanging. Thread the nut back on the stud and tighten it to secure the Bias Valve.
  • Using the Stainless Steel Hard Brake Line supplied with the Bias Valve, connect it from the -3an Banjo Adapter on the BBE Master Cylinder to the "in" fitting on the Bias Valve.
 
2. You will start with the driver side brake line. That will be about 26" long and have 90° fittings on either end. The female fitting will attach to the Bias Valve T and the male will connect to your fenderwell line.
 
3. The passenger line is the longest line in the kit with a logo on it. You will connect the 45° female fitting to the passenger side of the Bias Valve T and the male 90 to the passenger fenderwell line.
 
4. The rear line is the shortest line and it will connect to the Bias Valve OUT fitting with the female 90 side and the female straight will connect to the rear hardline at the firewall.
 
Now that everything is connected you will need to bleed each caliper, we suggest doing this with the Bias Valve knob all the way out (to the left) to give the most flow to the rear calipers. We have gotten the best results by using the two person method having one person pumping the pedal and another bleeding air at the caliper. You will want to start at the caliper furthest away from the master cylinder (passenger rear) and work your way to the closest caliper (driver front).
  
  
BMW E36 with Single Piston Brake Booster Delete for 95-99 (CB-E36-BBE)
 
1. We recommend having the ABS module (if applicable) removed and the Brake Booster Eliminator and Bias Valve installed before connecting the lines in this Brake Line Relocation. To install the BBE and Bias Valve, follow the steps below. If you already have these products installed, continue to step 2.
 
Brake Booster Eliminator Installation:
  • Disconnect the brake lines at the master cylinder/ABS module and remove from the engine bay.
  • Install the BBE through the holes in the firewall where the OE Master Cylinder/Brake Booster was located and secure it using the 4x M8 nuts supplied with the BBE.
  • Adjust the clevis on the BBE so that the pin can slide through it and the brake pedal without having to manipulate either to get the holes to line up.
  • Tighten the 5/16 x 24 nut on the Master Cylinder rod against the clevis to keep it from moving.
 
Bench Bleeding:
  • We recommend bench bleeding the BBE Master Cylinder prior to connecting the Bias Valve. This is easiest done by securing one of the brake lines in your Brake Line Relocation Kit to the 3an banjo adapter on the Master Cylinder and putting the other end of the line in the Brake Reservoir.
  • Fill up the reservoir with brake fluid and begin pumping the pedal, making sure that the free end of the Brake Line is completely submerged in brake fluid.
  • Continue pumping the pedal for a few minutes until you can not see any bubbles coming out of the Brake Line in the reservoir. Once there are no more bubbles you're good to go!
 
Bias Valve Installation:
  • Remove the nut securing the bottom of the BBE Master Cylinder to the mounting plate and slide the Bias Valve bracket over the stud so that it is hanging. Thread the nut back on the stud and tighten it to secure the Bias Valve.
  • Using the Stainless Steel Hard Brake Line supplied with the Bias Valve, connect it from the -3an Banjo Adapter on the BBE Master Cylinder to the "in" fitting on the Bias Valve.
 
2. The first line to be connected will be the one that is about 25" long with 90 degree fittings at either end. The female fitting will be connected to the T Fitting on the Bias Valve. The other end of the line will then be routed through the oblong grommet below the BBE and will connect to the driver side fenderwell brake line.
 
3. Next will be the longest line in the kit. It should be about 58" long with a 45 degree fitting at one end and a 90 degree fitting at the other end, it will also be the only line in the kit with a Chase Bays logo on it. Using the 45 degree end of the line connect it to the T Fitting on the Bias Valve. Now route the line along the firewall and through the oblong grommet just behind the passenger fenderwell where it will connect to the fenderwell brake line.
 
4. Last will be the shortest line in the kit at about 10" long. The 90 degree fitting will be connected to the "out" fitting on the Bias Valve. The line will then be routed down the firewall where it will be connected to the OE rear hard brake lines using the supplied F Fitting.
 
Now that everything is connected you will need to bleed each caliper, we suggest doing this with the Bias Valve knob all the way out (to the left) to give the most flow to the rear calipers. We have gotten the best results by using the two person method having one person pumping the pedal and another bleeding air at the caliper. You will want to start at the caliper furthest away from the master cylinder (passenger rear) and work your way to the closest caliper (driver front).