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Before we get started, there are some key factors that need to be looked over to ensure a good setup:
 
• Reservoir mounted properly/above PS pump inlet
• Hoses oriented correctly and in their respective locations in the system
     a. High Pressure (Pump to Rack) has a glossy coating and the Chase Bays label logo near the pump outlet
     b. Low Pressure (Rack to Reservoir) is the smaller nylon braided hose
     c. Pump Feed (Reservoir to Pump) is the larger nylon braided hose
• No visible leaks to be found anywhere
• We recommend Valvoline Synthetic ATF or better fluid
• Fill Point is halfway up the Reservoir
•  AN fittings only need to be cleaned/free of debris and snugged - we always compare them to a fender bolt/small M6 size bolt.
• DO NOT use any thread sealant on AN fittings.
 
Initial Installation and Setup. If there are any issues during this process skip ahead to the symptoms you're experiencing below: 
When installing the system for the first time, the 'bleed' process is very simple.
1) With the the car jacked up, fill the Chase Bays Reservoir to halfway full.
2) Turn the wheel back and forth to lock five times with the car off. This will allow some fluid to get into the Rack and Pump while the car is off so the system doesn't start completely dry. Add fluid if needed to keep it at half way full.
3) With the car still in the air, start it up. Let it idle for 3-5 minutes while checking for leaks at all the connections. If there are no leaks turn the wheel back and forth to lock five times.
4) Put it on the ground and start it up. Turn the wheel back and forth to lock five times. Now take it for a test drive. Drive around for 15-20 minutes and take note of how it sounds/feels in the beginning compared to the end. We have seen great results from this install process, combined with letting the car sit for an hour after the initial drive.
5) Check for leaks one last time, if everything is good you're ready to rock!
This is much more prevalent with PS systems, because ATF is much thicker than most fluids. This can make a 'leak' deceiving - as it can be a 'leak,' not actually drip any fluid, but it will be able to pull in air. This can be avoided by checking over each connection to ensure each thing is tight.  
 
Pump Whining? 
If the pump is making a noise that is louder than a typical pump 'hum', first you should double check for leaks. Specifically on the Pump Feed Line. We have studied that this is sometimes caused by a larger clamp than is needed on the inlet barb - the whole kit can be installed correctly, and looks/feels like it all should work. However, the larger clamp size will be tightened, and no fluid will leak, but the larger clamp on a smaller barb will cause the line not to seal properly, and draw in air. This leads to aeration in the pump (which can't be seen via bubbles in Reservoir), and will cause the pump to make noises.
 
Fluid Spilling Over?
Most people do not think that the PS system on every car is vented. It is a loop system so it must be vented to push and pull air. The high pressure pump to rack hose operates at 500-1500+ psi and fluid entering the Reservoir from the Rack has a lot of pressure behind it too (120psi max). Our newest revision of the Reservoir has been tested to slow fluid down from 120 psi to just 12 psi! Our cap has a complex vent system built into it. In a lot of cases, we see customers overfill their Reservoirs, and the cap will let some of the fluid escape through the vent hole. Most people see that, think there is a leak, and become frustrated.
If you fill the reservoir halfway; the fluid may push out some initially after a long spirited drive, drift event, or track day. After a couple sessions, this will reside. The good news is it won't very much at all and is easy to clean. 
 
Intermittent Power Steering?
There are a few possibilities for this to occur, and usually they are hard to pinpoint because the effects are inconsistent. The easiest thing to test when experiencing intermittent PS is to rev the engine while sitting still. If the steering becomes lighter while revving the engine compared to sitting at idle, then your pump is at risk for going out. The PS pump on every car is designed to output enough pressure to turn the wheels with ease while sitting still. There are variables, such as tire width/compound and pavement surface, but the effort is greatly reduced with a PS system that is in order. 
 
Another cause can be air in the system. The leaking section of the kit will have to be a fairly loose connection in order to cause the PS to be intermittent, but we have seen it happen. At that point, the pump will most likely be whining a substantial amount in order to cause the steering to become heavy. Check over all sealing surfaces, make sure everything is snugged up, and make sure there isn't a place for the system to draw in air. 
 
The last thing that could cause intermittent PS is a slipping belt. This would be noticeable while driving only, as the higher engine speeds are more likely to slip the belt on the pulley. Double check the belt's condition, make sure the ribbed section is free of cracks or missing belt teeth. 
 
No Power Steering?
Essentially, this is boiled down to a rack or pump (sometimes both) that is on it's last leg. We have personally seen racks and pumps go bad mid corner on track, without any warning or hesitation. The fact of the matter is that the system can be boiled down to 2 major components and the Reservoir. Our Reservoir has been tested time and time again on a plethora of cars, racks, pumps, and line lengths/routing. Every so often we see a fluke, such as some BMW banjo bolts not being drilled/clocked correctly to allow fluid to flow through them, but 9 times out of 10 it comes down to the pump or rack needing to be replaced.

If you're still having issues, don't hesitate to email us via Sales@ChaseBays.com